Linger restaurant is just up the hill from the iconic Little Man Ice Cream. The restaurant is a converted mortuary and is embraced by the restaurant by calling itself “Denver’s Finest Eatuary”.
The food focuses on modern American cuisine.
The Crab Cake Benedict ($16.50) contains two large crab cakes loaded with crab and not much filler onto English muffins. Hidden underneath the poached eggs and Old Bay hollandaise sauce are chunks of avocado which compliment the crab. It is served with a fennel slaw to slice through the richness of the benedict, and home fries giving the dish a “fish and chips” feel to the dish, in a very tangential way.
The Adobo Pork Benedict ($13.50) has a distinct Latin twist. Mounds of braised pork and poached eggs slathered with hollandaise sauce are loaded into plantain sopes with lentils. A side of slaw helps to cut through the richness and fattiness of the pork and hollandaise sauce. The black beans add an earthiness to the dish.
The Roasted Beet Salad ($10) has an Indian type twist to it. Paired with chickpeas, red onions, cashews, peanuts, lentil “noodles”, puffed rice, tomatoes, quinoa and raita. There were too many things going on in this salad, which just didn’t come together for me. The star should have been the beets, but got lost among the stronger flavors of the other ingredients.
The Fried Chicken Bun ($5.50) is a take on Korean fried chicken being paired with kimchi. The togarashi ranch took the sandwich in a totally different direction however. The honey sambal wasn’t necessary as the dish already contained spice with the kimchi and togarashi. The bun itself was a little doughy. The magic of Korean fried chicken is the amount of crunch since its fried twice. With all of the “wet” ingredients this was lost.
The BBQ Pork Ribs were tender but drenched in sauce, which was slightly on the sweeter side. The fries were kind of limp, but well seasoned. The acidity in the coleslaw helped to cut through the fattiness of the ribs.
The Wagyu Sliders ($15.50) were two fairly large burgers cooked medium. They were topped with aged cheddar cheese and peppered bacon. Once again, the fries were kind of limp. As Samuel Jackson says in Pulp Fiction, “Now that’s a tasty burger”.
Linger seems to be one of Denver’s more popular restaurants. The lines were long and the place was packed, even on a rainy day.
The menu is quite eclectic with a slant towards Asian dishes. I think the menu is a little ambitious, as some dishes weren’t well executed. Perhaps slimming down the menu just a tad would help focus on execution and have all dishes run on full throttle.